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Trip Overview
Part 1: Palermo
Part 2: More Palermo
Part 3: Segesta and Trapani
Part 4: The Greeks and Longi
Part 5: Gangi
Part 6: Siracusa and Modica
Part 7: Enna
Part 8: Mondello and Rome

Sicily Part 3

Segesta and TrapaniTHE WHEREABOUTS
The Greek temple at Segesta and the port of Trapani on Sicily’s western edge. I’d only chosen Trapani as a place to stay overnight, with medieval Erice as our actual goal, but the town turned out to be having pre-Easter festivities, great good, a fish market with sci-fi-looking specimens and a rosy sunset.

Segesta and Trapani

Within minutes of arriving at our hotel or B&B, Jeff and I have counted the electrical outlets in our room, unplugged unnecessary lighting and appliances, and have installed our converters and chargers. Jeff then gets busy doing whatever he needs to get the best possible wireless. This includes moving furniture, opening windows, and, at Agrigento, giving up our room with a view of the temples for one with better signal. Some people give us a hard time about all this--the cameras, the phones, (me) a computer (which Jeff never touches)--but for us, recording our travels and sharing them is our creative outlet. We love the adventure and hope our friends enjoy the results.

I love the vegetable markets in Italy. Taking pictures at the markets is cheating because there is a perfect shot in every direction. In Palermo, the intense reds and oranges and purples delighted my camera and almost hurt my eyes. I’ve always wondered where the artichokes and oranges and peppers that fill the markets come from. During my stay in Rome a few years back, even on the most dreary winter day, the markets were filled with color. The vendors would tell me that they got their wares that time of year from Sicily. On Tuesday when we left Palermo on the A29 heading west and south, I saw where the abundance comes from. Barely a centimeter is left unplanted. No hill is too steep for a crop and no patch is too small. Valleys and sloping hills are covered in yellows and greens and pinks this time of year. Cars pass over the patchwork fields (excuse the cliche) on precipitously tall causeways held up by elegant arches. Below, farmers buzz between fields in their three-wheeled trucks called api (ape = bee).

The rest of the Greeks stuff (Chef Jeff says the next time he hears the word “Greek,” it better be in reference to spanakopita or baklava. Then the Nebrodi Mountains and the famous suini neri (black pigs).